L'Epice de Mer by Montagne

Introduction

Vikings were the Norse people from southern Scandinavia…but, that’s too nerdy. Vikings, to all of us,

were sailors, had the longship (boat we all think of), they were amazing navigators and traders, but most of all, they were fearless and smelled of the sea. Creed attempted to encapsulate all of this into a scent in 2017, nosed by Olivier Creed, he captured the spices and citruses Vikings transported, the smell of the sea, the unmistakable scent of pepper and the uplifting feeling of navigation. This review though, is not about Creed’s Viking, it is instead about an inspired expression by the house of Montagne, aptly called L’Epice de Mer. Let’s dig down on the fragrance.

Notes

Top: Pink pepper, bergamot, lemon.

Middle: Pimento berries, mint, rose, orris.

Base: Sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, patchouli. 

Review

L’Epice (LE) opens up spicy and peppery, all sitting on a bed of fresh bright bergamot,  a very remote mint plays second or third violin, it’s also reminiscent of root, has that earthy vibe to it, almost dirty, it’s dry from the white floral angle, yet, it doesn’t have the powder associated with white florals. The bergamot does not dominate, neither does the lemon although they make their presence felt and can spike through the spiciness as the fragrance progresses. Ten to fifteen minutes in, the salty ambergris comes to the front of the fragrance and this is when I think it really shines, this is when the name L’Epice de Mer (the spice of sea) really shines through, at this stage, you can really experience the feeling of the sea on top a bed of spices, it’s marvelous. Imagine standing at the stern of a boat (back part), this boat is carrying spices and it’s made of wood, as you stand at the back the air sips through the hull of the boat and carries with it the spices you are transporting while at the same time the saltiness of the sea comes through, close your eyes and imagine that, you did? that’s L’Epice de Mer.

The dry down, 1 hour in, things get simpler and a very mature salty woody base comes to the front, the spices are now gone… but be aware, the drydown is salty, ambergris does not lose it’s head ever, what makes L’Epice feel like the sea is still there for the remainder of the fragrance’s life.  This makes the drydown stand on it’s own when compared to the plethora of wood based fragrances, it makes this unique. It’s pleasing and non-invasive, however, it does not become a crowd pleaser by itself, it remains weird enough to remind you of a niche fragrance.

When compared to the original, Viking is brighter and the ambergris salty note kicks in earlier, Viking has a better opening and it’s way more rounded early, to tie it to my previous reference, it feels like sitting on the boat from the get-go, it wastes no time showing it’s head.  L’Epice , however, takes longer, it’s very strange but it’s almost like both fragrances go through the same stages but Viking gets there faster, it develops almost immediately whereas L’Epicee takes some time to get there but those stages, once developed, are very similar, never completely the same, but, very close. How close? You know I don’t throw percentages around but, I’d say, close enough that unless I identified my tester strips, I wouldn’t remember which one is which.

Compared to Other Clones

I compared this to Alexandria Fragrance’s Seven Seas and instead of putting those 3 to fight each other, I

put L’Epice and Seven Seas on the ring. Seven Seas (black label) is darker and it does not “pop” like L’Epice does, it’s not bright, the pepper is different and I can barely feel the bergamot. Don’t get me wrong, Seven Seas is a fine fragrance and I like how deep it is, but, when compared to L’Epice, it loses, and it does because L’Epice has that ocean vibe, that pepper sparkling. 

A good way of concluding this: Seven Seas is like being inside the boat I was describing, but sitting at the front , close to the wood and no wind to be felt, the pepper feels like it’s been sitting for a while instead of fresh pepper, the saltiness and marine feeling is not as present. Seven Seas reminds me of the sandalwood and rose used on Viking where’s L’Epice reminds me of the bergamot, vetiver, lemon and ambergris on it. When compared to the original? Hands down, L’Epice takes the cake as closer comparison.

99BottledScents Grading & Usage

Scent: 8/10

Projection: 8/10 for 1 hour or so.

Sillage: with quarantine, it’s hard to measure this

Uniqueness: 8.5/10

Longevity: 7/10, lasts for a good 6 hours before becoming a fainter scent.

Versatility: 7/10, I can’t think of a situation I wouldn’t wear this, it wears up (suit) and down (flip flops & t-shirt).

Overall: 8/10

Is it Unisex? If you know me, I don’t like labeling fragrances for men or women, we should all feel the freedom to wear whatever scent we want. I sprayed this on my wife to do the test and I don’t prefer it on a woman, however, that is only my opinion and in no way should change your decision to wear and rock this!

Final Thoughts

When comparing clones or inspired expressions, it’s easy to judge the clone by the original or the other way around, judge the original by it’s clone. If you choose to judge the clone by the original, L’Epice is a bottle you can consider adding to your collection, the price difference between the Viking and L’Epice would be hard to justify for someone who only has a passing desire for Viking and I can assure you the essence of Viking is very present on this inspired expression. If you are ok with not owning Viking, you won’t find a better clone or inspired expression out there and when you put into the equation what L’Epice costs, this starts falling into the “no brainer” territory.

How about judging the original by it’s clone, this can happen when you don’t have access to the Original but think you know it just by the clone, this is where L’Epice can fall short. This is not a 1:1 representation of Viking and Creed can easily be called the king of ambergris, they know how to make that note really pop and Viking is a prime example of that, Viking feels like the ocean, Viking has an edge that only Creed can give a fragrance,if you want the original, only the original will do…. however, something to consider on your journey…Viking’s performance is horrible when compared to L’Epice, after 2-3 hours, Viking becomes a skin scent where L’Epice continues to project and that can tip the scale on L’Epice’s favor considering how close they are on the scent profile.

This brings me to my conclusion, when I first started reviewing L’Epice I thought it was going to be a bust given my experience with other Viking clones, I never thought I would like a clone over the OG, the consumerist part of my brain was like “the OG is better because it’s 4 times the price!”, alas, I can say that where I stand is this: The OG is better for the time it lasts on your skin, it is, the sprayer on the bottle is better, how fast it becomes rounded, all of that. I’m glad to own the original, but, had L’Epice be available when I bought the OG and I was able to compare them like I did just now, I wouldn’t had bought the OG and I would be happy with just owning this clone. Montagne did good by the Creed’s DNA and was able to bring us the spices of the sea for a price we all can afford. Good job Montagne, nah, scratch that, Great job.

Thanks for reading,

X.

Links:

L'Epice De Mer @ Montagne’s Website

My Instagram

Tobacco Noir by Montagne

Herod, a Parfums de Marly creation by none other than Olivier Pescheux, nose behind Eros Flame,

Valentino Noir Absolu Musc and 1 Million! (to name a few)  was introduced in 2012 and became a legend of its own, being the first niche in many people’s collections, being a love at first smell for countless stories in Instagram, suffice to say, Herod’s imprint in the fragrance world is here to stay. Like many niche scents, they can be expensive to acquire and in the case of Herod, a common critique is that the longevity can be better. Montagne, the inspired expression house based in NY has come up with a contender that pursues that Herod DNA, aptly named Tobacco Noir.

Openning

Tobacco Noir opens, for me, with a very strong green tobacco note and vanilla, enveloped in a grassy note , the note pyramid does not include Vetiver but that’s where my mind goes and that’s how I would describe it. It’s very comforting albeit it’s darkness (this is not a fresh fragrance, hence the noir name). Cinnamon and Pepper are also there, but I would not describe Tobacco Noir as being heavy on those notes, the opening is actually very well rounded and no note completely dominates over the other.

Heart

This fragrance’s middle is very complex and the incense really comes through, providing a sort of “ash” background, but it comes and goes, it’s extremely rounded and no notes take over the composition at any moment., I continue to detect Vanilla and now Musk is entering the composition, it’s one of those fragrances that are not linear, that invite you to keep investigating them.

DryDown

Vanilla, Musk, Cedar…. it’s very rounded, soft but woody, sweet but musky. I would consider this a crowd pleaser and would never assume it’s a niche offering just by the drydown alone, I can see why it’s so famous  though, it’s pleasing and although it can be a little complicated, the drydown being about those 3 major notes makes it so that it stays crowd pleasing. I really like this drydown, it’s very inviting and  not offensive.

Comparisons

Unfortunately, I don’t have Herod to compare it to, however, I do own Arabian Horse (AH) from Alexandria Fragrances. On opening, Tobacco Noir (TN) is more tobacco whereas AH is more peppery, almost peppercorn, for me, this part is the less inviting aspect of AH if I’m honest, it’s again the obsession with one note being all-powerful and taking over. However, things get better, Tobacco Noir goes woody when Arabian Horse goes sweet (ambery), with Tobacco Noir I have to wait for the incense, with Arabian Horse is there and it’s way more ashy than Tobacco Noir.  They are fairly different on the opening. A way of explaining it would be that Arabian Horse goes amber & pepper, whereas Tobacco Noir goes tobacco, vanilla & grassy. That grass note, although faint, is amazing.

Montagne goes peppery & cinnamon on the heart., at mid point, these 2 frags are completely different. Arabian Horse has a very strong note that completely takes over, I think its ISO E, it just wins with the pepper musk amber combination. It’s not bad, it’s just not complex.

On dry down they become way similar whereas AH is more amber with Tobacco Noir exposing cedar instead. No comparison for me, Tobacco Noir wins, for the wife, Arabian Horse wins because it’s denser, less skin scent. 

Conclusion

Montagne’s openings for PdM Inspirations are amazing, they really found something that clicked on the formula and I for one am excited to experience it, long gone are the days of harsh openings that threw notes in all directions, after some time to macerate, the first sprays are amazing. If you like the Herod DNA, you can’t go wrong, however, notice that the performance is not beast mode, Tobacco Noir will invite you to sniff and experiment, to learn, not necessarily to sit and be slapped in the face by it’s projection. This is extremely well done.

Thanks for reading,

X.

Top notes: Pepper, cinnamon, tobacco leaf absolute.

Middle notes: Incense.

Base notes: Musk, vanilla.

Links:

Tobacco Noir @ Montagne's Website

My Instagram

Azonto by Montagne

Bal D’Afrique , from the Stockholm based niche perfume house Byredo was introduced in 2009, nosed by Jerome Epinettee,  inspired by Paris in the late 1920’s and its infatuation with African culture, art, music, and dance. Well, that won’t invoke any memories for me so I decided to comprehend the feeling further, Bal translates to bale, bale from Africa, ok, this perhaps makes more sense as the grass notes and floral undertones would convey, but I’m getting ahead of myself. Today I explore Azonto, an inspired expression from NY based house Montagne.

Opening

Red & White Florals sprinkled with lemon, kissed by grass, enveloped in beach grapes. I know that sounds complicated…and I’m glad it does because that is what Azonto’s opening is like, complicated and fresh. Trying to peel out individual notes is very hard, lemon and vetiver are definitively there with a hint of neroli to my nose, neroli usually takes over fragrances, not this time. It’s a little powdery for me, perhaps from the violet but the fragrance itself does not feel as dry as other powder scents tend to be. The first few sniffs will definitively feel like a bale with vetiver grass surrounding a bunch of florals in the middle, picture it, a big bale with hay and vetiver intertwined on the outside, hiding a big bouquet of flowers in the middle, you open it on a humid day…that’s what this opening is like. I have many fragrances and have tested hundreds, the opening of this fragrance is on shelf of it’s own.

Heart & DryDown

Look, I’m not disappointed by the drydown, that would be too harsh of a word to use, it’s just that the opening is so perfect that I wished it stayed for a long time, I wish those notes lingered for hours, but alas, they don’t. The drydown is all about the amber, musk, vetiver with (what I think) is jasmine, basically, a woody base with a floral over-tone. It’s good, it’s just not this complicated fascinating fragrance the opening provided us, I love smelling this during the day, finding it on my skin and let it complement my day, it’s very fresh without being green, it’s floral enough without being floral.

Performance & Usage

Sadly, for me, this becomes a skin scent really fast, within 2 hours or so. I can find it on my skin for 6 to 8 hours easily, but, it does not project at all after the initial hour. This is 100% unisex, but, if you’ve read my review before you know I don’t believe in assigning gender to scent. This is a summer fragrance or perhaps a warmer spring day as well.

NOTE: I live in Seattle and the temperatures are on the cold side still, I will wear this when it gets warmer and will adjust my review if the performance changes due to weather changes.

Conclusion

I don’t own Bal D’ Afrique and to be honest, I’ve never even tried it before, I know it is a hyped fragrance but I never did pursue it. I tried Azonto thinking I wouldn’t like it, I was proved wrong so fast, I love the opening and how well mixed this fragrance is. Should you buy it? If you like fresh fragrances, I would say yes, the price to value proposition is amazing for what you get, there are ZERO designer fragrances I’ve tried that have this level of complexity, heck, even niche ones fall short.  However, if you are a big fan of beast-mode fragrance or those that last 2 days on your skin, I would consider the performance implications with this fragrance before pulling the trigger and getting it, me, I’ll spray this twice during the day…because I get to experience that amazing opening twice :) 

Thanks for reading,

X.

Top notes: Neroli, lemon, African marigold, bergamot, buchu.

Middle notes: Violet, jasmine, cyclamen.

Base notes: Musk, vetiver, cedarwood, ambery. 

Links:

Azonto @ Montagne's Website

My Instagram

Eau Bergamot by Montagne

Le Labo is a house you can’t judge by experiencing only one of their fragrances, Santal 33 is strong and

niche, Bergamote 22 on the other hand isn’t, it’s pleasing, soft, bright and can almost be called a crowd pleaser. Daphne Bugey, perfumer behind this fragrance is also responsible for Neroli 36, Rose 31, Tonka 25 and Lys 41 from the Le Labo empire, suffice to say, Daphne knows how to create a wonderful fragrance. Today I examine Eau Bergamot, an inspired expression of Bergamote 22 by the house of Montagne.

Review

BRIGHT! That’s the first word to comes to mind, sparkly bergamot is the first thing you feel. Interestingly enough, bergamot is technically not a lemon (as we tend to think) and instead it’s more related to a sour orange, hence the complicated and fascinating scent that can be extracted as oils from its rinds. Suffice to say, bergamot is a great note that can take sharp or dark connotations depending on what fragrance it’s used and how it’s mixed, it can be fleeting as it’s staying power is not great. On Eau Bergamot, the note is very bright which in this case it’s different from fresh, bright for me means it sparkles on your skin, comes alive, whereas fresh (for me) implies it envelops you on the scent, it brings you in like the smell of fresh coffee. Eau Bergamot is pretty straight-forward, bergamot, an amazing sour grapefruit and humid vetiver envelop a great amber/vanilla/musk base, although the fragrance can be described as simple, it should never be called boring or even similar to anything else, Eau Bergamot stands by it’s own merit and makes the wearer feel immediately happy, as if walking a citrus fields with no shirt on and the breeze picking up every scent. I feel this fragrance has a great resin/amber note on the dry down and I’m surprised the OG is not mentioned as a great amber dry down.

Performance is decent for a bergamot based fragrance that never lets the cedar or vetiver take over completely, I get 1 hour of solid projection and around 5 hours before it starts tapering off to a scent skin, note, performance on hot days is better as the sweat allows this fragrance to spark again! So, depending on use and number of sprays you  you might get 7 solid hours out of this.

Do I recommend this? If you like the bergamot note, that’s easy, yes. If you instead prefer darker fragrances, this might be too bright for you. When would I reach for this? In cases where I would reach for Acqua di Bergamot from Zegna, Mugler Cologne or Versace Man Eau Fraiche, I prefer Eau Bergamot to those because it’s less watery and the notes come alive!

Thanks for reading,

X.

Eau Bergamote @ Montagne's Website